"I want adventures in the great wide somewhere" Beauty and the Beast

Monday 17 September 2018

UK Roadtrip Take Two - Conwy Castle, Erddig and Chirk Castle

17th September




This morning we were on the doorstep of Conwy Castle waiting for the doors to open so we could get inside and have a look, and honestly I'm glad we were.  By the time we left, 45 mins later, the previously empty car park was full, the people appearing and the clouds rolling in with the rain!


Conwy Castle (or in Welsh: Castell Conwy) a medieval fortification, was built for Edward I, during his conquest of Wales, between 1283 and 1289. The castle is amongst the finest surviving medieval fortifications in Britain. Constructed as part of a wider project to create the walled town of Conwy, an estimated £15,000 was spent building the castle, the largest sum Edward spent in such a short time on any of his Welsh castles between 1277 and 1307.




Over the next few centuries, the castle played an important part in several wars. It withstood the siege of Madog ap Llywelyn in the winter of 1294–95, acted as a temporary haven for Richard II in 1399 and was held for several months by forces loyal to Owain Glyndŵr in 1401. Following the outbreak of the English Civil War in 1642, the castle was held by forces loyal to Charles I, holding out until 1646 when it surrendered to the Parliamentary armies. In the aftermath the castle was partially slighted by Parliament to prevent it being used in any further revolt, and was finally completely ruined in 1665 when its remaining iron and lead was stripped and sold off. Conwy Castle became an attractive destination for painters in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Visitor numbers grew and initial restoration work was carried out in the second half of the 19th century. In the 21st century the ruined castle is managed by Cadw as a tourist attraction.




UNESCO considers Conwy to be one of "the finest examples of late 13th century and early 14th century military architecture in Europe", and it is classed as a World Heritage site.The rectangular castle is built from local and imported stone and occupies a coastal ridge, originally overlooking an important crossing point over the River Conwy. Divided into an Inner and an Outer Ward, it is defended by eight large towers and two barbicans, with a postern gate leading down to the river, allowing the castle to be resupplied from the sea.




Conwy Castle was as beautiful inside as it was outside, maintaining its fairy tale image in our heads.  Though not so crash hot on the disability access (wet slippery stairs and ramps that were great fun with crutches), I managed to hobble around most of the castle itself, only having to avoid the wall walk along the tops of the wall themselves. 


After a trip around ASDA to buy sustenance for Rachael for her train trip (apparently trolley ladies like off Harry Potter don't actually frequent up and down real train aisles!), we deposited her safely at her train station, if a little early to catch her train back to London.  Rather 30 mins early than 2 mins late!


We then headed off back up the highway to Erddig,in Wrexham. After a brief exploration of the tour centre we headed 2 miles out to the National Trust property of Erddig Hall.  Erddid Hall was built in 1684–1687 for Josiah Edisbury, the High Sheriff of Denbighshire. Erddig is one of England's finest stately homes and is a Grade I listed building.


When visiting the house you are able to tour the grounds, house and gardens like most other stately homes around the country.  The difference in this home is the preserved distinction of the family and servants.  The tour starts "below stairs" and  tells of the Yorke family's unusually high regard for their servants and, through a collection of portraits, photographs and verses (a family tradition started by Simon's son Philip Yorke (1743–1804), who published The Royal Tribes of Wales in 1799), provides a record of the people who lived and worked on the estate. In the staterooms "above stairs" there is a fine collection of 18th century furniture and other treasures (many of which originally belonged to John Meller, including a portrait in the Music Room of Judge Jeffreys, the "Hanging Judge"). The Yorke family seemingly never threw anything away and the house now has a unique collection ranging from the rare and magnificent (including some exquisite Chinese wallpaper in the State Bedroom) to the ordinary and everyday. One of the conditions that the last Squire, Philip S. Yorke (1905–1978) imposed on handing over the house and estate to the National Trust in 1973 was that nothing was to be removed from the house, over 30,000 artifacts! He is quoted as saying: "My only interest for many years has been that this unique establishment for which my family have foregone many luxuries and comforts over seven generations should now be dedicated to the enjoyment of all those who may come here and see a part of our national heritage preserved for all foreseeable time."


We continued down the laneways to another National Trust property nearby, Chirk Castle. The castle was built in 1295 by Roger Mortimer de Chirk, uncle of Roger Mortimer, 1st Earl of March as part of King Edward I's chain of fortresses across the north of Wales. It guards the entrance to the Ceiriog Valley. The castle was purchased in 1595 for about 5,000 pounds by Sir Thomas Myddelton, a son of the governor of Denbigh Castle and successful London merchant. As a founder of the East India Company, an investor in the expeditions of Drake, Raleigh and Hawkins, he had the means to convert Chirk into a comfortable Tudor residence. His new stone north range contained a hall, buttery and kitchen, with upstairs drawing and dining rooms. This range, with alterations, became the main living quarters of the castle, while the old south range was gradually given over to servants. The castle was then passed down the Myddelton line (no relation to Kate Middleton unfortunately!). The castle passed into State care in 1978 and was handed to the National Trust in 1981.


On our way home we passed a beautiful castle ruin on the hill side, something you would never see in Australia!

 
Conwy Castle



 
Conwy Castle
 



Conwy Castle - from the cellar, if you imagine a ceiling over us that would have been the floor of the great hall.

Erddig Dining Room

 
The Chinese Wallpaper in Erddig, in a temperature controlled room





Erddig Hall




Chirk Castle

 
Chirk Castle Gardens and Dining room



Chirk Castle inner courtyard

Chirk Castle gates and gate house

Random ruins on the hill side!





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