UK Roadtrip Take Two - Derry

28th September


Today we were exploring Derry city centre and promenade.  After a late breakfast, we drove into the city centre and once finding parking (which was a feat in itself) wandered through town.  Beginning in 'The Diamond' we wandered down the hills to the promenade, wandered along the river front before taking a different route back up to the car.  Of course we stopped in all the little shops and for a pot of tea along the way!


Derry is the only remaining completely intact walled city in Ireland and one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe. The walls constitute the largest monument in State care in Northern Ireland and, as the last walled city to be built in Europe, stands as the most complete and spectacular.  The Walls were built in 1613–1619 by The Honourable The Irish Society as defences for early 17th century settlers from England and Scotland. The Walls, which are approximately 1.6 km in circumference and which vary in height and width between 3.7 and 10.7 metres, are completely intact and form a walkway around the inner city. Unfortunately due to the foot we did not climb or walk the walls, though they were quite impressive from the ground! The four original gates to the Walled City are Bishop's Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Butcher Gate and Shipquay Gate. Derry is one of the few cities in Europe that never saw its fortifications breached, withstanding several sieges including one in 1689 which lasted 105 days, hence the city's nickname, The Maiden City.


The Guildhall in Derry, is a a beautiful building in which the elected members of Derry and Strabane District Council meet. Built in 1890, with major internal reorganisation and restoration completed in 2010, means the Guildhall is now a key tourist attraction and main arrival point for the City, as part of the Walled City Signature Project.


The Cityside and Waterside of Derry are connected two car bridges but also by a foot bridge in the centre of the city outside the Guildhall called Peace Bridge.


Though it was late afternoon, we decided to jump into the car and head in land a little to the town of Strabane.  The town is located further along the east bank of the River Foyle, which marks the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland.  To keep with tradition, we wandered the centre of town and the little shops before heading home the scenic way through the back roads and even smaller towns!

Derry Walls

A random cottage in Derry, with a really cute frontage!

The Guildhall

Peace Bridge

Derry

UK Roadtrip Take Two - Sligo to Derry

27th September

We set off this morning heading north of Sligo along the Wild Atlantic Way, which runs along the entire coast of Ireland which fronts to the Atlantic Ocean.  Having followed some of this road in the Connemara National Park, I knew it was fairly well sign posted and we could follow it without much hassle.  We hadn't had internet at our accommodation last night, so I couldn't plan our day, and as a result was running by a tourist map and winging it!  All in all we ended up tonight in Derry at our Air BnB so all went ok!

We followed the Wild Atlantic Way north, passing and stopping for a wander and shop, at Rosses Point, Drumcliffe, Grange, Cliffoney, Tullan Strand, Bundoran and Ballyshannon, before stopping for lunch in Donegal. 

Tullan Strand is one of Donegal's renowned surf beaches. The beach possesses an extensive network of sand dunes and is framed by a scenic back drop provided by the Sligo-Leitrim Mountains.With scenic views for 360 degrees you can see back into Mullaghmore, County Sligo and across Donegal Bay to the magical Slieve League Cliffs.  However the main reason we stopped here wasn't to do a spot of surfing.  With the wind and the rain I was freezing in my three layers and overcoat, never mind putting on bathers!!  But we begun the Roguey Walk Experience along the coastline to visit the Fairy Bridges and Wishing Chair. The Fairy Bridges, unmagically known as sea stacks hundreds of years old were Bundoran’s original tourist attraction back in the 1800s. However, it is believed that as far back as the 1700s locals thought these to be haunted by the fairies with the result of the name “The Fairy Bridges”.  Also here is the Wishing Chair. Legend says it is advised to approach the chair with caution lest the powers of the chair be disrupted. Wishers are advised to sit down slowly holding on to both “arms” of the chair and then pause for at least 15 seconds to take in the stunning scenery that surrounds them – Donegal Bay to their left, Tullan Strand straight ahead and the Dartry Mountains to the right. It is useful to contemplate the figures, possible heroes and heroines who may have sat in the chair in the years and the centuries ahead of them, before making their wish which must be done in silence and kept private to the wisher in order to increase the chances of it coming true. Finally it is believed that tapping the seat twice as you get up will give your final commitment that your wish is a genuine one.

Donegal is a town in County Donegal in Ulster, Ireland. The name was historically written in English as 'Dunnagall' or 'Dunagall'. Donegal gave its name to County Donegal, although Lifford is now the county town. From the 1470s until the very early 17th century, Donegal was the 'capital' of Tyrconnell, a Gaelic kingdom controlled by the O'Donnell dynasty of the Northern Uí Néill. Donegal sits at the mouth of the River Eske and Donegal Bay, which is overshadowed by the Blue Stack Mountains ('the Croaghs'). On 1 December 2016, National Geographic Traveller named Donegal as the number 1 coolest destination of 2017. According to Pat Riddell, editor of the UK magazine, “It’s a warm-hearted place, but wilderness always feels just a stone’s throw away. And it is wilderness . . . world-class wilderness. We think it’s due a big year.”  I visited the Tourist information centre here and picked up the next map of the Wild Atlantic Way as we still hadn't found free wifi yet, and received a wonderful recommendation for a tea room to have lunch at.   After we had wandered the crafty shops and centre of town (the had some beautiful hand made clothes and crafty things!! I wish I could have bought them all home) we went in search for the Blueberry Tea Rooms.  A small shop front of an old fashioned paned window and door didn't give much hint of the hustle and bustle of the small tea rooms going on inside.  We were seated at a table on the lower floor of the crowed terrace house and thoroughly enjoyed a hot cup of tea and soup and sandwiches for lunch before heading on our way again.

After my chat with the tourist ladies I had a bit more of a plan for the afternoon.  We left the Wild Atlantic Way, heading directly north along the N15 through Ballybofey and Stranorlar before making it to the town of Letterkenny.  Here we rejoined the Wild Atlantic Way and headed around the coast towards Bridgend making a detour from the route to visit Grianan of Aileach before making our way into Derry. 

The Stone Fort of Grianán of Aileach is sits on a hilltop in Inishowen County Donegal. 250m above sea level, the stone fort was probably first built on an earthen rath. The origins of the Grianán of Aileach fort are dated back to 1700 BC. It is linked to the Tuatha de Danann who invaded Ireland before the Celts and built stone forts on top of strategic hills. They worshipped Dagda (the Good God) and he too is associated with the origins of Aileach. It was he who ordered the building of a stone fort to act as a burial monument to his dead son. The round fort is built largely without mortar. The interior has three terraces and wooden structures were built against the terraces to provide accommodation. The outline of Bronze Age or Iron Age ramparts can be seen below the fort. Legend states that the giants of Inishowen are lying sleeping but when the sacred sword is removed they will spring to life reclaiming their ancient lands. Mr Walter Bernard of Derry restored the stone fort or cashel in the 1870's. It is the centrepiece of the site, 23m in internal diameter with walls measuring 5m in height and approximately 4m in thickness. The dry stonewalls contain two passages within them as well as terraces along their interior which would have allowed access to their summit. The view from Aileach is breathtaking. The glistening waters of Lough Foyle and Lough Swilly are clear, as is the form of the entire peninsula. A windy and exposed place, we watched the wind sweep the rain in across the bay and hurried to be back in the car before it hit us, making it just in time.

Crossing into Northern Ireland and making our way to Derry, all of a sudden the road names had changed and the speed limit was in miles/hour again.  This would have been fine but our car only had km/hr on the dashboard.  This made for a fun guessing game! This time we found our accommodation first and dropped off all our gear before heading out again.  We aren't in the centre centre of town but we aren't far from it! First stop was Tescos to replenish the milk supply before we went for a quick spin around the city centre and a visit to The People's Gallery on Rossville Street, in the Bogside neighbourhood.  The Derry murals here consist of 12 murals painted by the Bogside Artists, namely brothers Tom and William Kelly and their friend Kevin Hasson.  Beginning in 1994, the three men illustrated the events of The Troubles on the walls of the houses in the area.  The political murals were composed to commemorate the events and educate those who didn't live through the struggles.  They show class the effects of the British policies on the Irish Catholics, as well as their lack of democratic rights and opportunities.  See the captions under the murals for explanations of their pictures and meanings. 



William Butler Yeats's Grave



 

 

Churchl of Ireland at the Drumcliffe Cemetery where Yeats's grave is.



Tullen Strand, County Donegal

The Wishing Chair

 

The Fairy Bridges

 

 

 



Grianán of Aileach



 

 

 

 

A random artistic mural in Bogside, Derry

Free Derry Corner:  Whislt not one of the Bogside Artists murals, the first artwork you note when entering the area of Bogside is the Ferry Derry Corner Mural.  Now found on a free standing wall, it used to be attached to a row of homes.  It depicts 'Free Derry', a self declared autonomous nationalist area of town from 1969 to 1972.  Its frequently repainted and can includes messages from time to time regarding other current political movements.  It is currently painted pink in honor of the Derry Girls Against Borders,  a female group making a stand against Brexit and the possibility of a hard border between Ireland and Northern Ireland.  Their hashtag is #makethemlisten

 

 

 

 

 

The Petrol Bomber:  This mural is a scene from the 'Battle of the Bogside' in this area in August 1969.  This is a young boy wearing a gas mask to protect himself from the petrol bomb he is holding.

Bernadette:  Also from the 'Battle of the Bogside', this mural features Bernadette McAliskey a social republican activist, addressing a crowd.  She received a prison sentence for initiating and participating in a riot.  She was later elected to parliament at the age of 21.



Bloody Sunday:  January 20th 1972 later became known as Bloody Sunday around Derry and the world.  On this day the British Army opened fire on a Civil Rights rally, killing 14 people.  This mural shows a scene from Bloody Sunday where a group of men carried the body of Jack Duddy.  At their feet a  civil rights banner is stained with blood.







Blood Sunday Commemoration: This mural remembers the 14 people killed during Bloody Sunday.  There are also 14 oak leaves to symbolize the deceased.  'Derry' comes from the Irish word 'Doire' meaning oak groves.



Death of Innocence: This is the mural of Annette McGavigan, a 14 year old girl who was killed in 1971.  The mural site is near where she died when a British solider killed her as she stood by the side of the road. 

Saturday Matinee: This piece is titled Saturday Matinee as it depicts a riot scene that became common on Saturday afternoons in the Bogside between 1969 and the early 1970s.

Civil Rights Mural:  This mural showcases the struggle for democratic rights for both Protestants and Catholics.  These early marches through the streets were inspired by Martin Luther King's civil disobedience campaigns.





Left: Operation Motorman: The mural depicts some of the events that occured during ‘Operation Motorman’ on 31 July 1972. Operation Motorman was a large operation carried out by the British Army (HQ Northern Ireland) in Northern Ireland during the Troubles. The operation took place in the early hours of 31 July 1972 with the aim of retaking the “no-go areas” (areas controlled by residents, usually Irish republican paramilitaries) that had been established in Belfast, Derry and other large towns. During the operation, the British Army shot four people in Derry, killing a civilian and an unarmed IRA member.
Right: The Runner: Tear gas was often used during the Troubles and this mural depicts a young boy running away from the gas cloud.  The two portraits at the bottom are Manus Deery and Charles Love, the two boys killed in Derry.  Manus Deery was shot dead in 1972, aged 15.  Fragments of a ricocheted bullet stuck and hit him, shot by a British Sniper from the city walls.  Charles Love was killed during a Bloody Sunday Commemorative March in 1990 when the IRA detonated a bomb on the city walls, sending flying debris to hit Love who was standing a quarter of a mile away. He was 16. 

 

The Civil Rights, The Beginning: "This mural commemorates the beginning of the struggle in Derry for democratic rights. It cannot be stressed too often that this struggle involved Protestants as well as Catholics. The 5th October 1968 march ended in bloodshed in Duke Street Derry when the RUC ran amok beating up on protesters with all the hostility and abandon of a group of Stormtroopers. The event was captured by television crews and sent shock waves throughout the civilized world. Our mural shows a typical march of the period. Our intention was to describe it as it was, a happy, almost festive occasion conducted by people who were content that they were standing up, at long last, against prolonged injustice. These early marches were inspired by the civil disobedience campaigns of Martin Luther King."
William Kelly, Bogside Artists

 

 

 

Mothers and Sisters: Peggy O'Hara was the mother of INLA Hunger Striker Patsy O'Hara.  She stood in assembly of elections in 2017 as an independent, and was very active in socialist and republican groups. The young girl on this mural points down the street to the peace mural below. 

 

 

The Peace Mural:  The Peace Mural is a swirling dove, a symbol of peace and Derry's patron saint, Columba.  The dove emerges from an oak leaf, another symbol of Derry.  Squares are used as they are equal on all sides, representing the equality of citizens, and the bright colours promise hope and a bright future for Derry.   

UK Roadtrip Take Two - Galway to Sligo

26th September

This morning we packed up our gear, and loaded it all into the car, by now Nanny was a bit squished on the back seat, farewelled Orla, the friend we had been staying with and begun our trip to Sligo. Sligo is a coastal seaport and the county town of County Sligo, within the western province of Connacht. Situated on a coastal plain facing the Atlantic Ocean, Sligo is located on low gravel hills on the banks of the Garavogue River between Lough Gill and the estuary leading to Sligo Bay. The town is surrounded by numerous mountains, with the ridges of Slieve Daeane and Killery Mountain to the southeast, Cope’s and Keelogyboy Mountains to the northeast and the distinctive mountains of Knocknarea to the west and Benbulben to the north. With a population of approximately 20,000 in 2016, it is the second largest urban centre in the West of Ireland, with only Galway being larger.  Our decision to stop off here for the night was purely made as it was too far to drive directly to Derry from Galway in the round-a-bout sort of fashion we like drive, and though we (sort of) drove straight there, it still took us all day to reach the town with all the stops we make!

Taking the M17 as far as Tuam, we detoured off onto the N5 to Castlebar, before heading up to Charlestown and finishing in Sligo.  Along the way we found several little shops and town streets to wander. 

Once arriving in Sligo, we drove through the main streets of town and had a bit of a walk through here too.  We decided to stop off at the central Tescos and pick up a few supplies before heading to our accommodation as we didn't know what would be around the place we were staying. When I mapped where the apartment was, it was literally around the corner from Tescos, on one of the main streets of town.  Nothing like being central!

Sligo

Sligo

UK Roadtrip Take Two - Connemara National Park and Surrounds

25th September




Today I had planned a route to explore a part of the Wild Atlantic Way and the Connemara National Park.  Athenry 9pronounced Athenri) was the first town we passed through, and the first main town closest to the home we were staying in.  Athenry is the best preserved medieval town in Ireland, retaining the upstanding remains of most of its original high-status buildings. With the excellently preserved Athenry Castle, Dominican abbey and over seventy percent of the medieval town walls Athenry provides visitors with an excellent insight into the heritage of medieval Ireland.  We wandered the town centre and visited the Athenry Abbey and Lady's Well. 




Next stop was Tuam, the second largest settlement in County Galway. Here we wandered the town centre and did some shopping before continuing on our route.


On our way to the town of Cong, we stopped at the ruins of the Ross Errily Friary. The Ross Errily Friary, or more commonly Ross Abbey, is a medieval Franciscan friary located about a mile to the northwest of Headford, County Galway. It is a National Monument of Ireland and among the best-preserved medieval monastic sites in the country.  Like many other abandoned Christian sites in Ireland, Ross Errilly has continued to be used as a burial ground by area residents. In addition to tombs that date from the friary's active period, many graves dating from the 18th through 20th centuries can be found inside the church walls. In some cases, tombstones comprise the floors of walkways and crawlspaces.


The town of Cong, our next stop, was the filming location for the 1952 Oscar winning movie, ‘The Quiet Man’ which starred John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. Filmed on the grounds of Ashford Castle, the movie has continued to resonate in the area and is still a major tourist attraction. Cong also has a fine example of a ruined medieval abbey, where Rory O'Connor, the last High King of Ireland, is reputed to have died. It also contains Celtic art in the form of a metal cross shrine called the Cross of Cong, which shows Viking influences. The 'Cross of Cong' is now held in the National Museum of Ireland, Dublin. Underground streams connect Lough Corrib, the largest lake in Ireland, with Lough Mask to the north. The Corrib is regarded by fisherman as one of the finest fishing lakes in the country, and certainly provides some beautiful scenery!  There are several beautiful walks you can do around the area, but due to the foot and the never ending rain today we abstained from them, instead choosing to enjoy a pot of tea and homemade scones in the local café 'Puddleducks'.




We drove through the town of Leenane, heading for the iconic Kylemore Abbey.  Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Walled Garden is one of Ireland’s most iconic tourist attractions and home to the Benedictine nuns since 1920.  Kylemore Castle was built in 1868 as a private home for the family of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy doctor from London. The construction of the castle began in 1867, and took the total of one hundred men and four years to complete.  The Abbey remained in Henry's estate after he returned to England. The castle was sold to the Duke and Duchess of Manchester in 1909, who resided there for several years before being forced to sell the house and grounds because of gambling debts. In 1920, the Irish Benedictine Nuns purchased the Abbey castle and lands after they were forced to flee Ypres, Belgium during World War I. The nuns, who had been based in Ypres for several hundred years, had been bombed out of their Abbey during World War I. The nuns continued to offer education to Catholic girls, opening an international boarding school and establishing a day school for girls from the locality. The school acted as the main educator for most girls from Renvyle, Letterfrack and further afield for almost a century but it was forced to close in June 2010. The nuns have since been developing new education and retreat activities. The Estate includes large walled Victorian Gardens. Since the 1970s these have been open for public tours and 'nature' walks. The Benedictine community has restored the Abbey's gardens and Cathedral with donations and local artisans in order to be a self-sustaining estate.


Now late in the afternoon, our last stop before heading back through to Galway was Clifden.  Located on the Owenglin River where it flows into Clifden Bay, Clifden is the largest town in the region, it is often referred to as "the Capital of Connemara". Though the biggest town in the area, it didn't take us long to wander the town centre and hop back in the car to head home.  On the way home we passed through the little towns of  Maam Cross and Oughterard, briefly stopping in the city centre of Galway, and picking up some dinner in Athenry before making our way home to our little beds!

Ross Errily Friary

 

Ross Errily Friary

 

Lough Corrib

Kylemore Abbey

Kylemore Abbey (the haze isn't my bad picture taking its the rain!!)

UK Roadtrip Take Two - The Cliffs of Moher

24th September


After spending the night in a princess bed, in the mansion, we were every bit the lazy aristocrats in getting up and out the door this morning! So much so that there was no dilly dallying on the drive to the Cliffs of Moher. 


Our tickets were valid for 0800 to 1059, and we cut it close pulling into the carpark and getting our tickets scanned at 1055. No speeding I promise!


The Cliffs of Moher are sea cliffs located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare. They run for about 14 kilometres. At their southern end, they rise 120 metres above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag's Head, and, eight kilometres to the north, reach their maximum height of 214 metres just north of O'Brien's Tower, a round stone tower near the midpoint of the cliffs, built in 1835 by Sir Cornelius O'Brien, then continue at lower heights. The closest settlements are Liscannor (6 km south) and Doolin (7 km north). From the cliffs today with the beautiful weather and little winds, we could see the Aran Islands in Galway Bay.  The cliffs rank among the most visited tourist sites in Ireland, with around 1.5 million visits per annum, and are a must visit when visiting Ireland.


We took the long scenic route up the coast line into Galway once we finished up at the Cliffs about mid afternoon.  For a way we followed the tourist coaches and stopped in the small towns we passed through.  All the towns were very little, generally having a few houses, a corner shop and of course a pub!


Galway lies on the River Corrib between Lough Corrib and Galway Bay, surrounded by County Galway, and is the sixth most populous city in Ireland.  We parked and wandered through the pedestrian shopping streets and Eyre Square, before stopping for some dinner in a local pub on our way home!

The Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher and O'Brien's Tower

Galway

Eyre Square

UK Roadtrip Take Two - Blarney to Galway

23rd September




Sleeping in a little late this morning, it was a bit of a rush to shower, dress, pack the car and get on the road.  Thankfully, our first stop was only down the road in the centre of Blarney, aptly named Blarney Castle.




Blarney Castle is a medieval stronghold near the River Martin.  Though earlier notifications were built on the same spot, the current keep was built by the MacCarthy of Muskerry dynasty, a cadet branch of the Kings of Desmond, and dates from 1446.  The castle is now a partial ruin with some accessible rooms and battlements. At the top of the castle lies the Stone of Eloquence, better known as the Blarney Stone. Tourists visiting Blarney Castle may hang upside-down over a sheer drop to kiss the stone, which is said to give the gift of eloquence. There are many versions of the origin of the stone, including a claim that it was the Lia Fáil — a numinous stone upon which Irish kings were crowned. Surrounding the castle are extensive gardens. There are paths touring the grounds with signs pointing out the various attractions such as several natural rock formations with fanciful names such as Druid's Circle, Witch's Cave and the Wishing Steps. The grounds include a poison garden with a number of poisonous plants, including wolfsbane, mandrake, ricin and opium, as well as cannabis.


After making the climb to the top of the castle, a feat in itself with crutches and a broken heel, as the narrow spiral staircases didn't have the best of steps! Mum and I kissed the Blarney Stone and made our way back down some more narrow staircases.  We did a quick self guided tour of the grounds and gardens before collecting Nan from the coffee shop (she didn't want to climb the castle!) and hoping back into the car.


Cahir Castle and the surrounding town of Cahir.  Cahir Castle is one of the largest castles in Ireland, is sited on an island in the river Suir. It was built from 1142 by Conor O'Brien, Prince of Thomond. The castle was sited on and near an earlier native fortification known as a cathair (stone fort), which gave its name to the place. 


We stopped for a pot of tea and a scone in Cahir to refuel ourselves before moving on to our next stop. 


The Rock of Cashel, also known as Cashel of the Kings and St. Patrick's Rock, is a historic site located at Cashel, County Tipperary. According to local mythology, the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil's Bit, a mountain 30 km north of Cashel when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the Rock's landing in Cashel. Cashel is reputed to be the site of the conversion of the King of Munster by St. Patrick in the 5th century. The Rock of Cashel was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman invasion. In 1101, the King of Munster, Muirchertach Ua Briain, donated his fortress on the Rock to the Church. The picturesque complex has a character of its own and is one of the most remarkable collections of Celtic art and medieval architecture to be found anywhere in Europe.  Few remnants of the early structures survive; the majority of buildings on the current site date from the 12th and 13th centuries.




By the time we had finished at the Rock of Cashel, it was now late afternoon, and we departed on the 2 hour drive up to Galway where our next accommodation was, with a sister of a friend of Mums.  We had instructions to met her at Junction 16 off the M6, and knowing what she looked like we hoped we were going to be ok! Thankfully, we pulled into the shops at the Junction and found her straight away.  We then followed her down the goat paths and back alleys to her house where we were sleeping in the rooms on the third floor (not including the basement and cellar!).  A beautiful house, we spent the evening by the fireside with a glass of wine in Waterford Crystal glasses!

Our little house in Blarney

Blarney Castle

Blarney Caslte

 

Kissing the Stone

 

Cahir Castle

 

The Rock of Cashel

 

The Chapel at the Rock of Cashel